Most Gloucester residents are familiar with the county’s long history of daffodil-growing. At one time, Gloucester daffodils were well-known across the United States, and we are still pretty famous for the lovely blooms that herald the entrance of springtime.

I haven’t written a column about daffodils for several years, but this is the time to think about fall bulb planting, so a refresher course for daffodil veterans and some basic information for novices seems like a good topic for this week.

Narcissus is the formal name for all species of daffodils. These lovely, mostly spring-blooming perennial bulbs are native to Southern Europe and North Africa, but today are planted in gardens around the globe. According to the American Daffodil Society website, between 40 to 200 species, subspecies, and varieties exist, assigned to 13 official divisions, so perfect daffodils exist for every gardener’s taste.

Always select healthy bulbs from a reputable grower or other source. Look for firm bulbs without soft spots or signs of basal rot. Keep bulbs in a cool, dry place (60° to 65°F.) until planting.

In Coastal Virginia, the best daffodil planting time is mid to late November when the soil temperature reaches below 55°-60°F., but in recent years, prolonged warm weather has caused us to put off planting until Thanksgiving and even December. Daffodil bulbs need the cooler temperatures to grow strong, deep roots. When the weather stays warm, bulbs will begin to sprout leaves instead of putting down roots. You may notice tiny green leaves poking up in your daffodil beds now.

Daffodils require a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of full sun each day and rich, well-drained, slightly acidic (pH 6-7) soil. Since soil on the Middle Peninsula tends to be a combination of sandy and clayey, one to two inches of organic matter should be mixed into the soil. The American Daffodil Society (ADS) recommends turning over the soil to a depth of 12 inches. Well-rotted chicken, horse, or cow manure and finely ground leaf compost are good soil amendments; never add fresh manure.

You don’t need to fertilize the first year, but if you decide to add fertilizer, use a 5-10-10 (N-P-K) fertilizer during soil preparation at a rate of ¼ cup per square foot. Work the fertilizer into the soil below the planting depth to avoid burning the bulbs. Plant the bulbs with the pointy end up at a depth of 2½ to 3 times the bulb’s diameter and about 6 inches apart. Leave baby bulbs attached to the “mother.”

Newly planted daffodil bulbs need plenty of water, but poor drainage will cause the bulbs to rot. Irrigate at a rate of ½ to 1 inch of water each week throughout the blooming season. In summer, the dormant bulbs do not require water. Mulch is essential to keep bulbs cool and moist during the summer and to discourage weeds. Pine bark, pine straw, and finely-ground hardwood mulch make excellent covers for daffodil beds.

After daffodils bloom, leave the foliage in place until it turns brown. Don’t tie it up or braid it into fanciful designs. The green foliage provides nutrition to the bulb for the next flowering season. If you mow the leaves, you will have few blooms next spring.

Dig up and separate bulbs every 3 to 5 years to insure full blooming capacity, or do like me, and promise yourself to dig them up, then find something else to do that is more pressing.

Most daffodils contain some level of chemical toxicity to humans, cats, dogs, and horses. Dermatitis, respiratory difficulty, and gastrointestinal upset are the most common symptoms. Wear gloves when handling the bulbs, leaves, and flowers, and supervise children and pets in the garden. The good news is that most pests like mice, voles, and squirrels will leave the plants alone.

Daffodil gardeners often say that daffodils “thrive on benign neglect.” Give them sunlight, water, and good drainage, and they will reward you for many years.