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Revisiting Helen Jenkins and her famous clam chowder

While visiting the Guinea Heritage Association’s Christmas party I had the pleasure of visiting with many friends. One of them, Hamilton Williams, wanted to make sure I knew about Helen Jenkins’s clam chowder and dumplings stating “she is such a great cook.”

The subject and name rang a bell and I told him I would check into the matter. Upon arrival to the office, I immediately began researching. Didn’t take long, as I found a story about Helen Jenkins included in our publication, “Every Week a Day in Your Kitchen.” Her cooking had been featured in the Gazette-Journal on October 3, 1991.

At that time of her life, Helen and her husband Braxton lived in Maryus, about 50 yards from the house she grew up in and “where I learned to cook.” It was also when she was cooking three meals a day and making a lot of biscuits, “My grandchildren’s favorite request.” From childhood to adulthood, cooking was a big part of Helen’s life. She and her stepdaughter Trisha participated in the Guinea Jubilee when it was held at the Hayes Plaza Shopping Center. Their red and white wagon offered a selection of seafood but Helen’s clam chowder was one of the most popular items. Between them, the Jenkins family had five children and nine grandchildren.

Over these past 34+ years her cooking practices have never changed although Braxton passed away in 2000. In 2004 Helen and Alvin Lionel Jenkins were married. The clam chowder and dumplings remained as popular as ever, both a moneymaker for the Jubilee and Museum and for their family. “I make it especially for the family during the summer months. Clams come easier.”

Lionel passed away in 2022. Helen made a decision, and two years ago she moved to the Point Plaza Townhouse. “I love it.”

For this past Christmas Helen spent the holidays with her daughter and granddaughter in California. “I didn’t do any cooking as I was on vacation.” However, before departing for the West Coast, Helen made a huge pot of clam chowder and dumplings for the Christmas celebration at Buck’s Store Museum, run by the Guinea Heritage Association. It was a big fundraiser.

CLAM CHOWDER WITH DUMPLINGS
“I have been making it this way for so long I just add until it’s right” (her quote in 1991).

30 lb. potatoes, peeled and diced
2 onions, diced
3-4 slices fatback meat
1 gallon clams, cut with knife, not ground
Salt and pepper to taste

Cook potatoes, onions and fat meat which has been cut into bite-sized pieces in water until potatoes are almost done.

Add clams cooking 4 or 5 minutes and then add dumplings and cook for a few minutes. Don’t cook too long or it becomes too thick.

Dumplings

Mix self-rising flour with enough lard to make dough that looks like gravel; then add enough water to make dough that can be rolled out. Roll very thin on floured board and cut with knife into small squares.

CRAB CAKES
“I like all crabmeat and not much filling.”

15 lb. crabmeat
4 green onions, diced
3 green peppers, diced
3 dozen eggs
4 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp. mustard
1 qt. mayonnaise
Pepper to taste
4-5 pkg. crackers, crumbled
Self-rising flour

Mix all ingredients together adding enough flour to the mixture to make it hold together nicely. Make into cakes and deep fry.

CLAM FRITTERS

Cut clams with a knife and add some salt, pepper and onions. Add enough flour to make mixture of pancake consistency. Deep fat fry and drain.

BISCUITS

3 c. self-rising flour
2 Tbs. lard or shortening (“whatever I have”)

Mix together and then add enough water and some more flour to make a good smooth dough. Roll out and cut into biscuits. Place on pan and give them the knuckle treatment. That’s pushing each one down with your four knuckles to keep them from rising too much.” Bake at 350℉. until golden brown.

HOMEMADE SPAGHETTI

Tomato paste
Green pepper, diced
Onion, diced
Whole tomatoes
Tomato sauce
Garlic salt
Onion salt
Pepper and salt
Hamburger

The amounts are according to how much I want to make. Use your own judgment. Mix all ingredients together and simmer for 1 to 1½ hours. Serve over cooked spaghetti noodles.