Sam Markwith has a mission.

Concerned about the state of a nationwide food system that’s based on economies of scale and that has an unsustainable carbon footprint, he wants to do his part to ensure there’s a sustainable supply of fresh organic produce locally available for Gloucester County residents—by starting his own farm.

But that’s not all.

Once Markwith has a valid, profitable working farm and has accomplished his goals locally, he wants to foster his ideas by supporting other farmers who want to carry sustainable methods throughout the Middle Peninsula, then to other Virginia localities, and ultimately to other states, until there’s a nationwide food system that works for everyone.

“You need to be the change you want to see,” he said.

It all started when Markwith was a child, helping his mom, Anne Markwith, in her flower garden. It was there that he learned to love the plant kingdom and the soil that sustained it. In high school, h...