Let’s fondue.
Fondue is a method of melting cheese with wine or cognac or brandy served communally from a ceramic pot warmed from below and enjoyed by dipping bread at the end of long forks into the cheese and eating it. The Swiss often get the credit for innovating this dish in the 18th century.
During the 20th century, especially the 1960s and ’70s, American fondue parties became especially popular. Just about every home had a ceramic pot in one of various colors. Many were electric, with six or eight long forks each with a colored handle or tip; no two alike. Americans invented the chocolate fondue, a dessert served in the same manner as the cheese fondue.
By the late 1970s fondue parties fell out of vogue, though they made a comeback in the late 1990s and early 2000s.
Although fondue became a social way of serving a food in this country, originally it was a way to make use of hardened cheeses and stale breads during the winter months. Americans use a variety of cheeses, but the first fondues consisted only of Swiss cheeses that were melted, often Emmental (Emmentaler) and Gruyère. Fondue comes from the French word “fondre” meaning to melt.
The first written recipes for this tasty dish were published in France and Belgium. It called for Gruyère, definitely a true Swiss cheese. Following World War II, fondue was named the Swiss national dish and remains today a popular entrée at most restaurants.
Fondue was unknown in the United States until 1964. A Swiss Alpine restaurant in the Swiss Pavilion introduced it at the New York World’s Fair. From this, its popularity grew but by 1970s fondue parties appeared to have fallen out of vogue.
So pull those fondue pots of the shelf and let’s fondue. It can be fun to host a fondue party.
Here are a few rules: One fork per person (no sharing). One plate in front of each guest. Stir the cheese by making a figure eight pattern with your dipper of choice. Eat with a separate knife and fork, not from the dipping utensil. No double-dipping allowed. At the end of the meal, if the pot has been properly stirred at a low simmer, a layer of cheese forms at the bottom of the pot. It’s called la religieuse (the nun). Scoop out and enjoy.
Fondue trivia
Tradition tells us that if the bread falls off a woman’s fork and into the pot, she must kiss the person sitting next to her. If a man drops anything into the pot, he has to buy the next round of drinks.
How to make fondue
The trick to making fondue is ensuring that the cheese melts smoothly and without separating. You achieve this by incorporating a starch such as cornstarch.
Traditionally, cheese fondue is made with a cherry brandy called kirschwasser (or Kirsch).
Fondue is traditionally made in a ceramic pot on the stovetop and then moved to the table where it is kept warm by a small candle or a silmilar heating source underneath. But you can also make in a slow-cooker.
To make it you combine the cornstarch and Kirsch and mix these to form a slurry. Then add a cup of wine and bring the mixture to a gentle simmer before adding small chunks of the cheese, a handful at a time, stirring until melted before adding more. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and serve while warm and melty.
SWISS CHEESE FONDUE
1¾ c. Gruyere cheese
1¼ c. Emmentaler cheese
1 c. dry white wine
1 clove garlic
1 tsp. cornstarch
1 Tbs. kirsch
1 loaf of your favorite sourdough or crusty French bread
Begin by taking the clove of garlic and rubbing the inside of the fondue dish with the cut side, spreading the natural garlic oil on the surface. Mix the white wine and cornstarch in the fondue pot and stir well to dissolve the starch. Light the fondue burner and gently heat the wine. As the wine gently heats, shred the cheese on a handheld box grater or other grating device, and add it to the wine. Finish the Swiss cheese fondue with a splash of kirsch.
HOT CRAB FONDUE
1 clove garlic, finely minced
2 Tbs. shallot, minced
1 Tbs. unsalted butter
¼ c. dry white wine
1 c. half-and-half
8 oz. cream cheese, cut into pieces, at room temperature
4 oz. mild Cheddar cheese, shredded
½ lb. crabmeat, picked over for shells
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
½ tsp. Old Bay Seasoning
½ tsp. dried dill weed
French bread cubes, for serving
CHOCOLATE FONDUE
1 c. (8 oz.) heavy cream
Pinch salt
12 oz. milk or dark chocolate (chips or roughly chopped bar)
For dipping
Strawberries
Banana pieces cut into 1-inch chunks
Dried apricots
Apple slices
Candied ginger
Heat the cream with a pinch of salt over medium heat in a small saucepan until tiny bubbles show and the cream begins to slightly and slowly simmer. Transfer the chocolate mix to a fondue pot heated at low or with a low flame and serve straight from the pot. Arrange the dipping pieces on a platter or plates around the chocolate pot. Use a fondue fork, to dip the pieces into the hot melted chocolate mixture. Eat immediately.
NOTE: If the fondue begins to feel a little stiff, add a tablespoon of heavy cream and stir.